Some Edge Binding

So after a quick look inside and a few measurements as well, I decided there was enough material at the joints between the top and sides as well as the back and sides, to add an edge binding.  I decided on a simple rosewood dark/natural, single layer strip around the top and bottom.  I had a couple of blocks of rosewood from a friend of mine that seemed like they might do the trick.

 They were already squared up, so I just sliced off a series of plates about 2mm (.080”) thick on the table saw.

 I then clamped them to a flat board, and using a utility knife, I cut off ribbons about 6.5mm (1/4”) wide.  I sanded the edges square and moved on to routering in the groove.

To do this, I made up a router jig that clamped to my router table fence that would allow just the right amount of bit exposure.  I made sure the end profile of the jig would allow access to the smallest portion of the Ukes waste.  I set the depth to slightly less than the 2mm thickness of the binding strips.  This would allow a bit of overhang to be scraped and sanded off later.  Better a bit proud than shy at this point.  After several test passes on scraps, I plowed into the edges of the Uke.  All went well and the groove came out perfect.

Next I set up my section of iron pipe with my propane torch inside to do the bending of the binding strips.

  The strips are very stiff and would not conform without breaking if they were not preformed.  I soaked the strips in a cooler (Go Lakers!) in hot water for about 15 minutes.  It is important to have an adjustable torch flame at this point because the pipe will rapidly overheat if the flame is not adjusted down quite a bit!

By slowly working the wet strips over the hot pipe and applying a bit of light pressure, the wood will soften and bend easily.  They will stay pretty much where you set them once removed from the pipe as well.

I pre bent all the sections of the binding strips and marked them so I knew where they fit when I glued them in place.

For this build, since the wood is mahogany, I decided to use CA glue to attach the bindings. Although I have not done it, I understand CA will discolor spruce over time and should not be used for spruce instruments.  In hind sight, the CA worked very well, however, the mess on my fingers stayed around for several days before it decided to relinquish its grip.

I began with medium thickness CA glue and it seemed to work out quite well.  Accelerator was a must as the open softer core of the mahogany plywood quickly absorbed the CA.  After it was glued in place, I went back and rewet the attachment joint with thin CA and applied a bit more accelerator.  There are a few small gaps that will be filled with a mixture of adhesive and rosewood sanding dust as a filler.  This fills up the gaps quite nicely and is virtually invisible when dry and sanded as long as the gaps are reasonable.

I continued working around the edges until both the top and bottom bindings were attached.  I did get a chance to do a bit of scraping with the cabinet scraper and a stiff sanding block with 120 grit paper.  The joint at the top is almost complete and I will get to the back binding next time I get to the shop. 

  So far, so good I think.  I am happy with the new look.  I ordered a wood rosette for the sound hole inlay instead of the wet-n-slide decal that came with the kit.  I think this will add a bit more character.  More to come!